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Journal

Rain in Radnorshire

Updated: Apr 26

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Rain in Radnorshire is not something to be endured. It’s part of the life of the land itself, softening the hills and deepening the greens, filling the rivers, draping the valleys in slow-moving mists. It is not an interruption; it is a reminder. Here, on the old drovers’ roads and the sheep paths that crisscross the hillsides, rain turns every walk into something more vivid. Waterproofs on, head down, senses wide open, you start to notice the details: the silver gleam of raindrops on bracken, the chatter of swollen streams, the way the woods seem to breathe.


The best thing to do on a rainy day is to walk anyway. Aberedw Hill, Radnor Forest, the secret folds of the Edw Valley, each place wears rain differently. Mists rise from the fields and curl through the trees. Hills that seemed sturdy and sure become dreamlike and mysterious. It’s in these moments that Radnorshire reveals its quiet magic, a landscape shaped as much by water as by stone and soil.


When the downpours grow heavier, there’s comfort to be found in shelter too, in old inns where fires crackle in deep hearths, in tiny chapels that still hum with centuries of prayers, in village tearooms where steam clouds the windows and the scent of fresh bread carries through the air. The rain outside only makes these places feel more real, as if time folds in on itself and you are part of a much older, slower world.


Stories seem closer when it’s raining. The old legends of saints and princes and secret battles feel less like history and more like something you might stumble into if you take the wrong lane at dusk. In Radnorshire, it’s easy to believe that the rain itself might be telling stories if you just slow down enough to listen.


The land changes constantly with the weather. Mists roll and lift, revealing a glimpse of a distant farmhouse, a crooked oak, a twisting stream swollen and roaring brown with the weight of the water. If you climb to a ridge after a storm, Gwaunceste Hill, perhaps, you might catch a rare break in the clouds, the valleys stretching away in every direction, washed fresh and gleaming under a shy sun.


Rain fills the food here too. Rich pasture feeds hardy sheep; wild mushrooms and berries thrive on the damp edges of woods. In small village markets and hidden farm shops, you’ll find cheeses, lamb, preserves, simple, full-bodied tastes that carry the weight of the weather in them, that feel honest and grounding after a day outside.


And then there’s the deep pleasure of getting a little lost. Let the winding lanes carry you. Let the streams overflow and block your path. Find yourself somewhere unexpected: a ruined farmstead half-swallowed by moss, a lane thick with dripping hawthorn, a standing stone wreathed in cloud.


In Radnorshire, you don't fight the rain. You step into it, and you find that it has its own way of teaching you how to belong: slowly, quietly, without fuss. You might arrive thinking you are passing through, but somewhere between the soaking lanes, the silver rivers, and the misty hills, you realise the land has drawn you in.

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